With amd-staging-4.9, commit a364784ea02674736abd9d345fd74bf6787f95a1 ("drm/amdgpu: expose GPU sensor related information"), it works now, but only if DC is enabled (I guess it's DAL reborn?) Either I didn't configure DAL correctly before (even though it showed up in dmesg), or there was an actual change that made it work for my card between xmas and now. Today I lit a candle and deleted fglrx.